St Ives

St Ives sits on Cornwall's north coast around a curved harbour, and has drawn artists since the late 19th century for the particular quality of light bouncing off the sea and the town's white-walled granite cottages.

That artistic history is still visible today at Tate St Ives, an outpost of the Tate gallery built above Porthmeor Beach, and at the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, set in the studio and garden where the sculptor lived and worked until her death in 1975. The narrow lanes of the old town, known as the Downalong, are still lined with fishermen's cottages and net lofts from the town's working past as a pilchard fishing port.

St Ives has beaches on both sides of its headland — Porthmeor, exposed to the Atlantic and popular with surfers, and Porthminster, more sheltered and sandy, facing back towards the harbour. The South West Coast Path runs along the headland between the two.

Where to Stay in St Ives

• The Garrack Hotelabove the town, private gardens
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  Primrose Valley Hotelsteps from Porthminster Beach
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  Tregenna Castle Resort18th-century estate overlooking the bay
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  Boskerris HotelCarbis Bay, sea views
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  The Western Hotelcentral St Ives
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  Carbis Bay Hotel & Estateprivate beachfront estate, Carbis Bay
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  Blue Hayes Private Hotelclifftop above Porthminster Beach, adults only
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  Pedn Olvaon the rocks above Porthminster Beach
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  The Gannet InnSt Ives Road, towards Carbis Bay
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  The White House at The Tinners ArmsZennor, short drive from St Ives
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  Harbour Hotel & Spa St IvesThe Terrace, above the harbour
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  Lifeboat InnWharf Road, on the harbourfront
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  The Badger InnFore Street, Lelant, near the Hayle estuary
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  Treloyhan Manor St IvesCarbis Bay, manor house with pools
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  Trevose Harbour HouseThe Warren, boutique guest house
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  Balnoon InnOld Coach Road, Lelant
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  Borthalan HouseCarbis Bay, sea views, adults only
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  Host St IvesTregenna Hill, central St Ives
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  Headland House Luxury B&BCarbis Bay, sea views, adults only
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  Cornerways Guest Housecentral St Ives
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  The Mustard TreeSt Ives Road, Carbis Bay
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  The CountrymanOld Coach Road, near Lelant
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  The Olive BranchPorthminster Terrace, sea views, adults only

Getting there

St Ives has its own branch railway line from St Erth on the main Penzance line, one of the more scenic short rail journeys in the country, and is a genuinely easier way in during summer than driving, since the town's streets and parking are tight.